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| Bridget in the vineyard at Agriturismo I Vignetti |
In August we enjoyed a fantastic family holiday to Olbia in Sardinia to celebrate my brother Dan, turning 30 and for Glen and I, it really opened our eyes to a different style of family holiday.
Dan and his partner had stayed on an ‘agriturismo’ - a working farm with accommodation - the previous year in Sicily and they absolutely raved about it. Dan booked this holiday as a treat for us all, and we were originally staying in a villa in Olbia, the other side of Northern Sardinia, which annoyingly got cancelled by the owner just a few weeks before we were due to go. After some frantic research we found the Agriturismo I Vignetti in Olmedo, just a fifteen minute drive from Alghero and what a beautiful base it proved to be.
Agriturismo I Vignetti is set in stunningly well-kept grounds in the countryside, and the accommodation amounted to comfortable and spotlessly clean stone apartments. Our room, a family room, had a separate bedroom, en suite and a living area with an extra bed, as well as a travel cot for Beatrice. The living area had a bed that doubled as a sofa for Bridget, a coffee table and a kitchen area, with a fridge, and tea and coffee making facilities. Everything was well presented, fresh and clean.
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| Accommodation at Agriturismo I Vignetti |
With beautiful flowers and greenery dotted around, and being in the countryside and a little off the beaten track, it was a very peaceful base, which made for a welcome change from our usual style of holiday.
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| Restaurant area at Agriturismo I Vignetti |
The working farm had an array of chickens, goats and a few horses; and the children loved visiting them each day and offering food. The huge area for growing vegetables was fantastic and the owners were happy for you to wander through taking an interest and we certainly did. It was great to show the girls where all of the vegetables we eat of an evening were coming from – Bridget was fascinated by how many different types of tomatoes they were growing – I was quite enthralled myself. Opposite the sprawling vegetable patch was a vineyard growing both red and white grapes, which was beautiful. We enjoyed some fantastic nature walks daily - it felt like we had got back to nature, but in very comfortable lodgings.
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| Feeding the chickens at Agriturismo I Vignetti |
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| The vegetable gardens at Agritusimo I Vignetti |
Agriturismo I Vignetti had a lovely swimming pool area with plenty of sun loungers, and it being August and stiflingly hot, we all took full advantage of it. There were a number of other guests of varying ages and a couple of families we overlapped with, but the pool was generally quite quiet during the day, until we arrived with Bridget and Beatrice of course.
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| Pool area at Agriturismo I Vignette |
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| Beatrice enjoying the pool at Agriturismo I Vignetti |
The dining area was stunningly rustic; open air, with flowers and greenery dangling down, it was very pretty. Breakfast which was included was a very-much continental affair, with pastries, cured meats and cheeses, breads and yoghurts and a few cereals as well as boiled eggs. It was fairly basic, but plentiful and we enjoyed a lighter start to the day – it made room for the many delicious things we would encounter daily in Sardinia. Their version of a type or Grana Padana which they made on the farm was really delicious, much creamier and nuttier than those I’ve had before and their cured meats, which I would never normally have around breakfast time were lovely too, especially the saucisson.
Over breakfast, the charming host, Gianfranca, would inform of us of that evening’s dinner menu; with everything prepared coming from the land of the agriturismo. We enjoyed two excellent meals here during our week long stay. One, a lasagne – an absolute triumph, and one a ‘meat in the oven’ dish – which turned out to be roast suckling pig with village potatoes and roasted vegetables – absolutely divine. So fresh, so simple but so, so good.
Also each meal came with some small plates of appetisers – a fragrant little open tart of dressed tomatoes with basil leaves running through. Everyone knows how good tomatoes taste in the Med and these were no exception! We had the most delightful little stuffed aubergines topped with cheese; as well as more plates of cheese and cured meats. Desserts included a lemon ricotta concoction – which was like a sweet stuffed and fried pasta dish, and my favourite – tiramisu. Really great food. There was also pasta courses which was always gnocchetti – tiny little shells with a grooved edge in a simple but stunning tomato sauce and topped with lashings of cheese. Gnocchetti is the pasta of choice for children it seemed in Sardinia as the girls enjoyed it all over the place.
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| Tomato Tart at Agriturismo I Vignetti |
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| Roast suckling pig at Agriturismo I Vignetti |
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| Incredible lasagne at Agriturismo I Vignetti |
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| Gnocchetti at Agriturismo I Vignetti |
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| Enjoying a meal at Agriturismo I Vignetti |
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| The rest of the gang |
Whilst we had a couple of days of just relaxing around the agriturismo and then heading into Alghero, we found that we’d go out most days, and then return late afternoon to Agriturismo I Vignetti and enjoy the last hour or so of sunshine around the pool.
Our apartments each had a little table outside to enjoy a morning coffee or an evening beverage and were our meeting spot each night before heading out into Alghero or over to our own restaurant.
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| Happy 30th memories Dan! |
Having a car is a necessity here, as you really are off of the beaten track and it gives you the access to discover some of the delightful wonders of north Sardinia.
BEACHES
There are absolutely tons of beaches and coves in this area of Sardinia, and we visited a fair few. Each have their own individual character and charm; and are ensconced by the crystal clear, bluey green waters which are hugely welcoming in the summer heat.
Most are incredibly busy in August but of the bunch we managed to visit, our favourites were Mugoni – slightly more commercialised, with a huge stretch of sandy beach, completely covered by revellers, families, couples, and solo sun worshippers and Porto Palmas which was much smaller, but perfectly formed.
The locals have the right idea, bringing with them everything you could want at the beach; their own umbrellas, pop up sun-loungers or chairs, blankets and towels, plus a cool bag filled with delicious looking picnic fodder and beverages. Much as we would do in the UK, but if I’m honest, slightly better.
Mugoni stretches for nearly 2km and has a pine forest behind – offering a welcome retreat from the sun. We visited in Italian holiday time in August, so it was particularly busy, in fact every beach was packed solid, so it’s actually worth arriving early or booking ahead if you want sun loungers – which incidentally are priced between 20-30 Euros for a pair with an umbrella so be sure to bring cash, or be prepared to bed down on your towel in the sand. Mugoni has a selection of cafes, restaurants and bars along the whole stretch so is great for a full day.
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| Mugoni Beach, Sardinia |
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| Beatrice enjoying the beach at Mugoni, Sardinia |
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| Me, Bridget and Beatrice enjoying the cooling water at Porto Palmas Beach, Sardinia |
We also visited the likes of Lido, Porto Ferro and La Bombarde on the Algero side and had a peek at the Pittulongo beach on the Olbia side on our way to the airport..
FOOD
Italian food is an all round favourite for our family – pizza and pasta feature in my children’s top five foods for sure, and Glen and I are very partial to them too, but Sardinia has so much more to offer than this.
I didn’t mark down the names of every restaurants particularly as we didn’t really have a bad bite to eat anywhere – food is just done so well across Italy and Sardinia is no exception.
We enjoyed melt-in-the-mouth tagliata (beautiful steak cooked in a dressing of lemon and garlic and topped with grated Grana Padana and sea salt), roast suckling pig that was to die for, a seafood stew so exquisite in flavour I wanted to bottle it up forever, and of course a whole load of different pastas and pizzas which were all exceptional.
A particular highlight for me was a Linguine Vongole at Al Refettorio in Alghero and the pizzas and pastas at Restaurante Il Pagura in the little town of Fertilia; the only place we couldn’t resist returning to.
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| Linguine Vongole at El Refettoria, Alghero, Sardinia |
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| That sumptuous seafood stew, Alghero, Sardinia |
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| Beautiful pizza at Il Pagura, Fertilia, Sardinia |
Also the food at the Agriturismo I Vignetti needs special mention here too as was also excellent and felt very traditional – for a family with two small children too, the hosts were very accommodating, and it’s great to holiday knowing you can have an informal and relaxed evening with the kids, not going further than a couple of hundred yards from your door, but still enjoying exceptional food.
Also wine is particularly good in Sardinia and it's fairly cheap too - we enjoyed plenty, and were always pretty happy with the house dry white.
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| Enjoying some Sardinian wine in the sunshine at Porto Torres |
CHILDREN’S ACTIVITIES
Butterfly House
We visited the Butterfly House which was only a fifteen minute drive away from Agriturismo I Vignetti. As well as playing host to an abundance of unusual butterflies, Butterfly House is also home to a number of tropical birds, insects and other wildlife and for 10 Euros per person, it was well worth the trip. Under 3’s are free of charge too – so it’s well worth it if you have small children.
What’s more, and what we didn’t know until we arrived, the Butterfly House also has a lovely swimming pool and jacuzzi area, a spa and a fantastic wooden play area for children. It’s a great choice for a full day’s outing and as we were nearing lunchtime but the adults weren’t quite ready to eat, we picked up a homemade margherita pizza for the girls to share which was freshly made, utterly delicious (as we couldn’t resist trying) and cost €5!
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| Beatrice having a play at Butterfly House, Sardinia |
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| Bridget looking rightfully smug at her delicious 5 euro pizza |
The Alghero Funfair
Each time we ventured into Alghero by night, we let the girls enjoy an hour on the fun fair at the port. Bustling full of families with young children up to teenagers, and in typically Mediterranean fashion this was jam packed way into the night in August. Each ride was priced between 2-3 Euros and the kindly staff were happy for the parents to join the little ones free of charge – the Sardinians are very sweet towards the bambinos.
One evening we had a nightmare parking (over two hours to find a spot – the less said about it the better) and had promised the girls a go on the fun fair, but were more concerned about getting some dinner into them, so said we’d take them afterwards – expecting it to be shut, but no, even at midnight it was absolutely packed.
Horse and Cart Ride Around Alghero
A little tourist activity to take you round the bigger tourist spots of the city – from the Cathedral, to the port. Priced at 10 euros per person and free for the baby.
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| Bridget with Uncle Dan, enjoying the trip around Alghero by horse and cart |
The Beach
Honestly for my children – enjoying a day on the beach is such an adventure – whether it’s building sand castles or creations, paddling in the sea, digging a big hole or seeing what ‘treasure’ they can find from a crab, a pretty shell, or even seaweed. This continues to be an important factor in almost all of our summer holidays.
The Pool
Equally a day at the pool at Agriturismo I Vignetti with a lunchtime picnic was as enjoyable for Bridget and Beatrice as it was for us. We ventured to the supermarket in nearby Sassari where we were able to pick up lovely salad items and some freshly cooked porchetta – unlike anything you could pick up in a UK supermarket, as well as fresh cream cakes. Bliss.
ALGHERO
By day, Alghero is an interesting city - we found an amazing fresh fish market, plenty of cafe culture, and an amazing restaurant scene not to mention some incredible architecture and some cute shops. In August though, it was a little unbearable to walk the hills and cobbled streets, in the heat if I’m honest, especially with the children.
By night, Alghero is an electric place to be. Row upon row of shops adorn the streets, which are lit by pretty lanterns, and around every corner is a little trattoria, bar or restaurant with the welcome sight of tons of guests sipping their Aperol Spritz or other trendy beverage, watching the world go by.
We are not great planners when on holiday, preferring to be spontaneous, but unfortunately in Sardinia, or at least Alghero, in August, not booking a table when there are eight guests including two small children, can prove problematic. We learnt from our mistake the first night and booked ahead in advance.
We didn’t indulge in the nightlife in Alghero – having the children with us and it being a much more laid back holiday, but were told it was there for the taking for sure.
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| Alghero by day |
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| The Port of Alghero, Sardinia |
This really was a completely different type of holiday to what we’re used to with the children and we thoroughly enjoyed and would be open to another stay on an agriturismo elsewhere in the future. The cost per night differs in the different rooms, but for ours in August 2019 it is priced from £141.00 including breakfast for the four of us.
We loved Sardinia – it was a great family holiday full of fabulous memories and is well worth considering as a summer holiday destination with children.
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